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TECHNICAL

Do your headphones sound a little like tin cans?

 This is why:
On the right is an oscilloscope picture of what you hear
in a set of typical narrow frequency response headphones.
 On the left is Ratphones reproducing exactly what your machine is sending.
Why not hear every signal as it was intended?
 In a comfortable,  well built, high isolation set of Ratphones!
Get up close and personal with your machine and find more targets.
 

Hear for yourself.
Click these buttons:


Whites MXT:

RatphonesNarrow band*

Troy X3:

RatphonesOther Brands

Tesoro uMax (Moded Bandido):

RatphonesOther Brands

Not convinced? Try with music:

RatphonesOther Brands


* Note: Many major brands use these narrow band speakers and will sound just like this.

The mystery of the Stereo/mono switch

Detector headphone switches are not really stereo/mono switches.
The ground conductor is what is switched to make the phones
either series tip/ring or parallel tip/ring as seen below.

  

Do it yourself Rat Tail:
You can make your own emergency Rat Tail
with a coiled guitar cord
 and a mono jack to stereo plug adapter for the machine side
for example Radio shack 274-1520.
Adapter not needed for Minelab/Garrett/Fisher machines.

Sov Mod TIP:
Normally, if you have the Sov mod option, it is on for
Minelab/Garret/Fisher machines only, automatically
due to the direction of the Rat tail.
You can turn off the Sov mod filter (if installed)
with a stereo jack to mono plug adapter at the phones side
for example Radio Shack 274-360
or turn on the filter on non Minelab/Garret/Fisher machines
with a mono jack to stereo plug adapter at the phones side
for example Radio Shack 274-1520

Headphone specs and advertising

by Rick Viola

 

Impedance.

Basically, you get the most power to the speakers when the headphone impedance matches the machine. Not only this, but you will have higher efficiency and draw less battery current. What is the machine impedance? Well, it varies with the manufacturer. Many machines are 150 ohms and a few are about 300 ohms. However, advertisers seem to often claim 150 ohm headphones. Well, that may be the impedance of the speakers  used, but unless you are swinging a true stereo machine (there are very few) your headphone speakers are in parallel. This makes your so called 150 ohm headphones really 75 ohm headphones. There are also so called 100 ohm headphones that, you guessed it, are really 50 ohms when you connect to a typical machine. The further away you get (up or down) from the machine impedance, the less volume you get. This will most likely affect  distortion, making the sound you hear further away from the sound that was intended.

Here is a scan of impedance through the entire audio range of so called 150 ohm headphones with the usual speakers. Impedance numbers are on the left. This measures 69 ohms at 1000 hertz.

Here's Ratphones. More constant though the entire audio spectrum:



Then there is Minelab. Their machines working better on low impedance headphones is not really correct. They ship Koss UR-30 phones with some machines that say they are 100 ohms. Well since they are stereo that means each speaker is 100 ohms. Minelab machine jacks connect stereo phones in series. That means you are connecting 200 ohms to the machine. So where is the low impedance? The newer Minelabs have better circuitry, but the X-Terra's have a slight hum in the mid tones. This can be heard with any wide response phones. The X-Terra has an output impedance of 230 ohms, so Ratphones are an excellent match. But you may want the Sov mod installed to clean up this noise in the X-Terra.

Here is an impedance plot of Koss UR-30 headphones as connected to a Minelab machine:

So it seems they ship 250 ohm headphones with their machines!

New Ratphones Max impedance graph:


However, impedance matching alone does not make a good sound. This mostly optimizes volume. Other features such as the speaker efficiency,  magnets, materials and durability are also important. The final judge will be your own ears. Some customers actually like a loud distorted screech!

KNOWN OUTPUT IMPEDANCES (OHMS):
Here is some machine impedances we have verified by either schematic or testing:

FISHER:
1260: 220
1210: 100
CZ-70: 470
F-75: 274
ID Edge: 500

TESORO: (Most all 150)
CUTLASS II/BANDITOII uMAX: 150
SILVER SABRE PLUS: 150
Silver saber: 150
GOLDEN SABRE: 150
ELDORADO (NON-uMAX): 180
GOLDEN uMAX: 150

TROY:
SHADOW X2: 150
SHADOW X3/X5: 277

Minelab
Xterra: 230

NAUTILUS
150  ON HIGH CHANNEL, 47 ON LOW CHANNEL.

WHITES
6000DI: 470
3900: 300
GM III: 168
CLASSIC I: 220
MXT: 230

So let's review a few points:

1) To get the highest volume and efficiency, match the headphone impedance to the machine impedance.
2) Mono detector phone speakers are in parallel. So 150 ohm speakers will make 75 ohm phones, on ANY machine.. Minus a little (or a lot) wasted by the controls.
3) If you use true stereo phones, this is a special case. The speakers STILL end up in parallel, however the manufacturer will spec the impedance in ohms per side. On machines other than Minelab or Garret, 100 ohm per side stereo phones will end up at 50 ohms seen by the machine. But on Minelab and Garret, the wiring in the machine puts stereo phone speakers in series. In that case, 100 ohm per side stereo phones will now become 200 ohm phones.
 

Ratphones use 600 ohm speakers resulting in true 270 ohm total impedance delivering more power to the speakers and match a wider range of machines. They have less distortion and higher clarity. They will be 270 ohms on ANY machine. (300 minus a little for the controls).

 

Speakers. And frequency response.

As you are searching though the specs, see how many 150 ohm (actually 75 ohm as discussed above) have a frequency response of 200 to 3200 Hz. Sound familiar? Well, most of the major brands that I took apart have the exact same speakers! Why not, they have been around a while, they seem to hold up. Yes they have been around because they were developed for telephones. We all know how bad telephones sound. Sure, nice and loud, but a bit distorted. Engineers in those days had the attitude that if the human voice was in that range then that is all the frequency response you need. Maybe for Alexander Gram Bell. Not for today’s electronics. We want to hear every nuance of the sound from soft to loud!

It’s also interesting  how some headphones are “specially made” for a certain type of detector but have the same speakers. Making phones that only work with machine “x” or "y" by removing the compatibility switch, does not make it optimized.

Ratphones frequency response is 20 Hz to 20KHz which is the full spectrum of human hearing. Believe me, you will hear it! Since Ratphones do not need a switch, the failure rate is greatly decreased, not to mention the replaceable cord. Since the cord is reversible to make them compatible with all machines, there is no need for a switch or to produce a “special” version, except stereo, or maybe a single volume. If you want something different, just let us know.

 DB ratings

Don't put too much stock in db ratings. Headphone manufacturers are at the mercy of the speaker manufacturers on that one. There are many ways to test this as there are standards. But let me say this, you can take the loudest headphones and make them twice as loud. But if the sound is not clear, you gain nothing.
Ratphones will allow you hear your machine better. That's what is important.

 

Ear muffs.

Many headphones we see use three basic styles. They are excellent for metal detecting. No metal parts, comfortable and look stylish. There are two typical ways that earmuffs are rated, NRR (noise reduction rating, North American) and SNR (single number rating, European). They are just different standards based on different test procedures. The SNR is always a little higher that the NRR., so you will hear that number more often in advertising. The original type that appeared has SNR rating of 28 db. The ones with the added an additional plastic piece is 29db. To put that in perspective you need 2 or 3 db to notice a difference. Then there are the “lighter” cups you see that are 24 db. Do they feel lighter on your head? I don’t think anyone would really notice. You may notice the slightly more hollow sound due to the thinner plastic. Well, they cost less and are almost as good.

But that’s the three major designs. 29, 28 or 24db. That’s all. No matter what the ad says. Some like the super light home stereo phones also, which sound good, but are uncomfortable and not really made for outdoors.  In the end, it's a personal preference. I'm just saying, if they look the same, they are.

Ratphones use the popular 28 db NRR version in a gloss dark green. They are professional looking and cartoon picture fee. (Well, just the little RAT logo). The new Pro-Form leather cushions have increased the rating to the more stringent NRR spec. Not to mention greater comfort! The new Pro-Leather ear pads conform to your head for excellent isolation and unlike the older vinyl type, bounce back like new and don't become brittle for a longer time.

 

Limiters.

This is a “circuit” that tends not to affect the lower volume sounds and prevents the loud sounds from being too loud. If you have a modulated audio machine that has weak and loud sounds, some users like this. Some machines (many Whites) have too much dynamic range in the audio, where if you turn up to hear deep, the shallow targets are way too loud.

Recently I tested the Whites MXT. This machine needs a limiter on many headphones. It's much too loud on shallow targets. Our limiter will work just right and will not affect your deep signals. The medium volume signal will decrease slightly and the loud blasts just a little louder than the medium ones. It is a soft knee limiter that still allows you to tell the difference but with much less of a blast. It also generates even order harmonics rather than odd which would make the sound harsh or distorted. Also, if you are not using full range headphones on an MXT, you are really not hearing that machine as intended.

Ratphones will sound clearer at all volumes so you don't need to turn up as high to hear the deep targets. But if you think you still need limiting, we will gladly insert our limiter circuit for low cost. It has a softer, more natural limiting effect.

 Volume Controls.

Volume controls, also called potentiometers or "pots" can be a very important component in headphones. Pick the wrong value and the max volume will be too low or the adjustment range will not be smooth. Most important, if you choose the wrong wattage, there could be too much current through the control and it will be damaged or become scratchy over time.
Let's say for example you have a 1K pot that is 0.2 watt and 150 ohm speakers. This is used a lot on competitor headphones because they cost less than a buck. The maximum current allowed though that pot will calculate to 14 mA. With those speakers connected to a Whites MXT the current can be as high as 22mA.
A Nautilus cam be over 40 mA That is a failure waiting to happen! After about a month or so, the controls will burn out and become scratchy from dead spots in the carbon element.

You can see why we changed to 1 watt pots. From then on, we never follow the competition. Detents (clicks) are not needed here. They have just the right feel for continuous adjustment to get the exact setting you want. Plus we added an o-ring for an even tighter feel. Our low inductance speakers also have the same tone for the entire range of the volume control. So you don't have to turn the volume all the way up to get a crisp sound.

Switches.

Hey, who doesn’t like switches? Sometimes they are necessary to turn features on and off or to make headphones compatible with different wiring schemes of the machines. They will increase the failure rate. The better ones that fail less are very costly (and rarely seen).

Ratphones don’t need a switch. If you request a feature switch, we use splash proof epoxy and internal o-ring sealed switches. No protection boots are needed.

Volume

Are Ratphones the loudest? No. But you will actually hear more. Limiting factors of volume on detectors are headphone output short protection, component ratings, battery capacity and battery time. So you can only deliver so much to the headphones. Then there is the volume controls in the headphones. If you want a smoother range when you turn the control, you will sacrifice volume. If you want full audio range, you sacrifice volume. We think we have achieved just the right balance. We understand that  the clarity of the sound is most important. If you just want the loudest beep, no mater what the target, you should look elsewhere. Then replace the speakers on your home stereo with bull horns!

Circuitry

OK, let's call volume controls, speakers and wires circuitry. Is there much engineering here? In our case, yes.

Ratphones controls are industrial sealed and cost 6 times more than the typical low cost carbon commercial control. They will not be affected by moisture, dirt or other elements and the rotation life of these controls is much-much longer. Rated at one watt, makes them unprecedented and just not found in the industry.

The max input voltage is 8.8v rms (4.4v single volume version), where the typical competitor is 2v or 1v for single volume models.  We like a little more headroom than that because many machines deliver 1vac rms during battery test tone! Please note that these maximum voltages do not correspond to the battery voltage. The duty cycle (how long the pulse is on) and the output impedance plays a major role in determining the actual machine output voltage.

Our wiring is military/aerospace grade adding even more to the value and dependability. The Teflon insulation can endure longer soldering time to insure proper solid connections and resist stress. We even thread our own cross wires  with the same wire to insure the quality. No compromises!
 

Ratphones…something new….really.

 

Manufactured with a lot of care and thought by Detect USA.
No hype needed. Satisfaction guaranteed.